Chios is the fifth largest Greek island, and one that almost nobody outside Greece has heard of, let alone visited. That is exactly the appeal: no resorts, no cruise ships, and an island that still feels properly Greek.
Fifty thousand people live here, so it stays lively and connected to the mainland all year round. So instead of the crowds you get: medieval mastic villages built as fortresses across the south, the walled citrus orchards and Genoese-era villas of Kampos, uncrowded beaches, a harbour busy with local life, an extensive network of walking trails, UNESCO-listed monasteries and some of the best food in the Aegean.
The mastic tree grows across the Mediterranean world. However it is only on the southern part of Chios where the tree produces its prized resin. Despite numerous attempts to cultivate resin producing mastic trees elsewhere, it is only on Chios where they actually do. A mystery unsolved to this day. Due to mastic's unique medicinal purposes and historic demand for the resin, the fortress-like villages were built on the south of the island, where locals cultivate mastic tree as a primary source of income to this day.
Kampos is a historic lowland plain on the Greek island of Chios, renowned for its grand stone mansions hidden behind high walls amidst sprawling citrus orchards. Its development began in the 14th century under Genoese rule. The ruling elite utilized the area's rich underground water table and favorable microclimate to establish systematic citrus cultivation. Owning a fortified estate quickly became a supreme symbol of wealth and nobility. Through the 17th to 19th centuries, Kampos flourished as a luxurious summer retreat for elite merchants.
Black volcanic pebble beaches, pine-backed coves, and long uncrowded stretches of the coast. A couple of more lively sandy beaches with bars, tavernas and volleyball pitches in immediate vicinity of Chios town and Kampos. Swimming season runs roughly from mid-late May to the mid October.
Chios town is not picturesque in the postcard sense, and that's fine. It is not a facade for visitors, but genuine lively town with lots of activity in the morning and in the evening - with an obligatory siesta in the afternoon of course. While pedestrianised streets in town centre see most activity in the morning, the centre of gravity slowly shifts to bars and lively music cafes alongside the water in the evening.
The inland of Chios is mountains, stone villages and walking paths between them and spectacular views across the board. This is where we take teams who want a day out that is not a boat ride.
Nea Moni is an 11th-century monastery, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The monastery is globally important for its exceptional Byzantine mosaics, which are among the finest surviving examples of the "court style" from the Byzantine empire’s golden age. Along with its historic architecture, including an impressive octagonal main church. Nestled in the islands' interior, it can be reached either by road, or a pleasant, roughly 2-hour hike.
Retreats run from spring to late autumn. Here is roughly what each month is like, so you can judge the timing against your own calendar.
| Month | Typical high | Sea | What it's like |
|---|---|---|---|
| March | 17°C | Cold | Green, wildflowers, quiet. Good for walking, too early to swim. |
| April | 20°C | Cold | Citrus in blossom and the island at its greenest. Our favourite month for a working week. |
| May | 24°C | Swimmable | Warm, long days, everything open but not crowded. |
| June | 28°C | Warm | Proper summer starting. Good for swimming at any point. |
| July | 30°C | Warm | Hot, and often quite windy. |
| August | 30°C | Warmest | Hottest and busiest, though busy here still means relatively quiet. Greeks take their own holidays now. |
| September | 26°C | Warmest | Sea at its best, heat eases off, everything still open. Another outstanding month. |
| October | 22°C | Warm | Slightly cooler, empty beaches, swimming to about the middle of the month. Excellent for walking. |
| November | 18°C | Cool | First rains, tangerine harvest starting. Indoor-focused weeks work well. |
Indicative long-term averages rather than a forecast. Winter retreats (December to February) are possible for work-focused weeks, just ask.
Four nights is enough to get a real sense of the place. Tell us when.
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